This will be my ongoing log for my climbing workouts. They started on March 05, 2014 at 6:30am with Bijan, Larkin and Ben at Movement Climbing + Fitness.

April 8

Technically this is week 6. Performance week. I suppose I should try something hard in the gym to really see how strong I am.

So far, when I try something hard I’m on about 12b at the gym. Not really better than I have climbed, but certainly stronger than I was coming directly off my finger injury.

Some highlights:

  • I onsighted an .11c at shelf
  • I TR’d a .12b clean at shelf
  • I followed OuterSpace in Eldo .10d R and it felt really hard.

 

Day ??? (I’ve missed a few..) (March 21)

Okay so I’ve fallen off the blogging block a bit. That always tends to happen. But here is a recap. This week I did Monday and Thursday’s workouts. I skipped Tuesday and I still plan on doing today’s but I accidentally slept in and missed the 6:30am cue. Anyway…I still weigh exactly 133.4lbs, but I am WAY stronger. I was able to climb the complete Monkey Traverse for the first time ever (not like I try a lot — I think it’s been over two years since the last time I did that), my arms and core are feeling super strong, and I’ve even had a friend say I look a lot fitter.

Point being: The workouts are working.

I’m getting a little antsy to get back on a rope. We’ve been doing a LOT of bouldering. Which is good. And I know it makes me stronger. But I am a girl that likes to get high (on a rope). And since we’ve been sticking to the mini-wall, aka indoor bouldering area, I’ve lost a little motivation.

But next week we get to pull on harnesses again. Psyched.

That’s all for today.

Day Five Details (March 11)

Climbed three routes in a row @ hard-hard-easy @ 4 sets.

  • 11a(grey wall)-11b(grey wall)-10a
  • 11b-11a-10b
  • 11c-11a-10a
  • 11c-11a-10d

Then did an intense campus board workout, 1 min on, 2 mins off @ 3 sets each

  • ladder, bumb, long reach, dead hang, pull ups

TOTAL HOURS: 3.5

Weight

133.4

Thoughts:

Doing the campus board with major menstrual cramps is challenging. That’s the main thought from today’s intense workout that I did with Cletus Blum. He’s a wicked good climber. Started his first set of climbs at .13a and .12d. He fell off that first .12d. “I’m gonna take it down a notch,” he said. A few minutes before I fell off my second hard route of the first set. That was the start to our 4 hour workout. And it remained a struggle fest until the very last pull up rep. Oy.

But I’ll tell you what. I’m starting to feel significantly stronger. Even now. 

Day Four Details (March 10)

photo 1 photo 2

Climbed Boulder Problems 3-in-a-row @ hard-hard-easy, 3-5 sets

  • /V4*-V4-V1
  • /V4-/V4-/V4-V3-V0
  • V4-V4-V1
  • /V5-/V5-V1

*Again, the “/” donation means I tried the problem, but didn’t finish it.

Climbed Boulder Problems 2-in-a-row @ easy-hard

  • V0-V5 (heck yes!!)
  • V1-V3(cave)
  • V1-V3(cave)

Core Workout – 5 exercises for 1 minute each, no rest

  • Plank, supermans, knees to elbows, V-ups, supermans

TOTAL HOURS: 1.5

Weight

133.6

Thoughts:

I started the day sore. Strangely, my pecs are the sorest from Saturday’s two sets of pushups. That’s saying something. 

The bouldering problems were fun. So much less committing than sport routes. I felt stronger than our last bouldering workout, and completed my first V5 in months. I felt the strength in my fingers/hands as well as overall power endurance. That’s awesome, but slightly unexpected since most of our workouts have been endurance training. Woo! 

Again, I would have liked two sets of core. I’ll start adding that in. 

Day Three Details (March 8) 

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Climbed up-downs on lead for 10 minutes each, no resting. 6 sets.

  • 10b (greywall)
  • 9
  • 10a
  • 10b (greywall)
  • 10b
  • 8

Circuit Training I – 30 seconds each exercise, no resting in between. 2 sets

  • Pull ups
  • Push ups
  • Pull ups
  • Shoulder press

Circuit Training II – 1 minute each, no resting in between, 3 sets

  • jump rope
  • burpies
  • knees to elbows
  • box jumps

TOTAL HOURS: 3.5

Weight

132.8

Thoughts:

I definitely shouldn’t have started the climbing portion with a 10b on the grey wall. I wasn’t warmed up enough . Almost fell in “set 1.” That said, it was incredible to watch my body “learn” as the session progressed: how to rest, how to conserve energy, and how to slow down my climbing pass to avoid the pump and retain muscular strength. I especially saw an interesting change in my climbing partner Beka — who tends to climb really fast. This exercise really mandated that she slow down, be thoughtful in movements, etc.

The other interesting thing to note was that I felt pretty good until set 6. Set 6 (I climbed a 5.8) I struggled. Basically wrapped my body around each massive hold in order not to fall off.  I stuck with it. And didn’t end up falling the entire workout, but man I was beat at the end.  

Day Two Details (March 7) 

photo (27)

Climbed Boulder Problems, 3 in a row @ hard-hard-easy w/ 5 mins rest inbetween

  • V3-V3-V1
  • V3-V3-V1
  • V3-V4-V1
  • V4-/V4-V1
  • V4-V5-V1

Climbed Sport Routes, 2 in a row @ easy-hard

  • 10c-11a
  • 10a-10b(greywall)
  • 10a-11a(greywall) (fell)

Core Work 5 total minutes, no stopping

  • plank, superman, knees-to-elbows, situps, superman

Weight

  • 134.2 pounds

Thoughts:

Today’s workout took us 2 hours and 15 minutes to complete. We skimped on the sport routes drill. It was supposed to be 4-6 sets and 45 minutes, and we only got in three and it took us over an hour. I could have done another set, but obviously we had run out of time.

The skin on my hands starting hurting on my first sport route. Felt like my footwork was shaky on the vertical walls, but my endurance was fairly good. I think that my hand/finger strength is lesser than my overall endurance at the moment. Psyched to have stronger fingers.  

A possible suggestion to the workout? Would have maybe liked a second set of core exercises?

Day One Details (March 5) 

Climbed 3x 5 routes in a row @ hard-easy-hard-easy-hard

  •  10d – 9 – 10d – 9 – 10d
  • 10c(greywall) – 9 – 10c(greywall) – 9 – 10c(greywall)
  • 11b – 7 – 11b (fell) – 7 – 10c

Ran

  • 30 min

Weight

  • 133.4 pounds

Thoughts:

The workout was tough. Climbing 15 pitches seemed hard. Mostly the skin on my hands hurt. I thought the first “hard” pitch was one of the hardest. I fell on the second 11b pitch. And by the last hard pitch I was toast. Next workout is two days from today.

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